The Global Rise of Panettone

For millions around the world, the festive season officially begins with a sound: the gentle rustle of ornate paper, followed by the release of a profoundly comforting aroma—a rich cloud of citrus, vanilla, and butter. It is the scent of Panettone, the majestic, dome-shaped sweet bread that has transcended its Milanese origins to become a global ambassador of Italian Christmas. But to label it merely a “Christmas cake” is to overlook a remarkable evolution. In recent years, panettone has undergone a dramatic transformation, moving from a seasonal supermarket staple to a year-round gourmet product, coveted by food connoisseurs and crafted by master artisans. Its journey is a masterclass in how tradition, craftsmanship, and savvy marketing can elevate a local specialty into an international symbol of luxury and the enduring appeal of “Made in Italy.”

The origins of panettone are steeped in the mists of Milanese legend. One popular tale speaks of Ughetto, a nobleman who, in the 15th century, disguised himself as a baker’s apprentice to win the heart of the beautiful Adalgisa. To impress her father, he created a rich, leavened bread filled with eggs, butter, and candied fruit, a creation that became an instant success. Another story credits a humble kitchen scullion named Toni, who saved the day at a ducal banquet by inventing a sweet bread from leftover dough after the official dessert was burnt—the “Pan de Toni.” While these stories add a romantic patina, the historical reality is more modest. Panettone evolved from the simple, enriched breads that Milanese families would bake at home to celebrate Christmas. It was in the early 20th century, however, that two Milanese entrepreneurs, Angelo Motta and Gioacchino Alemagna, revolutionized the product. They industrialized the process and, crucially, Motta introduced the tall paper mold (pirottino) that forces the dough to rise vertically, giving panettone its now-iconic lofty dome, and transforming its texture into the light, airy structure we know today.

The secret to this unique texture and complex flavour profile lies not in a recipe, but in a living, breathing ingredient: the lievito madre, or mother yeast. This is the heart and soul of any true artisanal panettone. It is a sourdough starter, a complex culture of wild yeasts and bacteria, that is often decades, sometimes even a century, old. It cannot be created quickly; it must be meticulously maintained by the pastry chef (pasticcere) through a daily ritual of “refreshing”—feeding it with flour and water at precise intervals and temperatures. This living yeast is responsible for the panettone’s incredible softness, its delicate web-like crumb, and its remarkable shelf life without the need for artificial preservatives.

The production process itself is a testament to patience and skill, an unforgiving art that cannot be rushed. It is a marathon of baking that can last from 36 to 48 hours. It involves a series of doughs (impasti), where ingredients are added in careful stages. The lievito madre is first mixed with flour, eggs, and sugar, left to rise for many hours, then enriched with butter and more yolks, and left to rise again. Only then are the candied fruits and raisins gently folded in. Once baked, the most critical phase begins: the raffreddamento a testa in giù, or upside-down cooling. The hot panettoni are immediately pierced with long skewers and hung upside down for at least eight hours. This seemingly strange practice is essential to prevent the delicate, butter-rich structure from collapsing under its own weight, thus preserving its signature airy dome.

For decades, the market was dominated by these large-scale industrial brands. Recently, however, a powerful artisanal renaissance has redefined panettone as a product of haute pâtisserie. A new generation of master pastry chefs, like the legendary Iginio Massari, Nicola Olivieri, and Andrea Tortora, have elevated the cake to an art form. They approach it with the same reverence and technical precision as a Michelin-starred chef would a signature dish. The focus is on exceptional raw materials: fresh eggs from free-range hens, high-altitude Alpine butter, single-origin chocolate from Venezuela, candied Sicilian oranges and Amalfi lemons, and specialty nuts like the Piedmontese hazelnut or Bronte pistachio. These “gourmet” panettoni come in a dazzling array of flavours, from classic to wildly creative combinations like salted caramel, gianduja, apricot and salted butter, or even savoury versions. This movement has successfully repositioned panettone in the minds of consumers as a luxury good, a worthy indulgence for which they are willing to pay a significant premium.

This artisanal excellence has been the driving force behind panettone’s global conquest. While Italian immigrant communities have long been its ambassadors, introducing it to new homes in the Americas and beyond, the modern export strategy is far more sophisticated. Packaging has become a crucial element, with many artisanal producers collaborating with artists and designers to create beautiful, gift-worthy boxes and tins that communicate the quality of the product within. These high-end panettoni are not found in the holiday aisle of the supermarket; they are sold in luxury food halls like Harrods in London, Dean & DeLuca in New York, and Isetan in Tokyo.

Moreover, the industry has made a concerted effort to break panettone’s seasonal chains. It is now actively marketed as a year-round indulgence—a perfect accompaniment to a morning cappuccino, an elegant dessert, or the base for creative dishes like French toast or bread pudding. This strategy has found fertile ground. In countries like Peru, panettone (or panetón) with hot chocolate is a firmly entrenched Christmas tradition, consumed in vast quantities. In the US and UK, it is increasingly seen as a sophisticated alternative to traditional fruitcakes. Its global appeal lies in its unique combination of lightness and richness, a celebratory treat that feels both traditional and surprisingly modern.

The story of panettone is the story of Italian excellence in miniature. It is a product born of legend, standardized for the masses, and now reclaimed and elevated by artisans. Its success is a powerful reminder that in a world of instant gratification, there is a profound and growing desire for products that embody time, skill, and uncompromising quality. From the humble kitchens of Milan to the most exclusive tables around the world, the rise of the panettone is a testament to the enduring global appetite for authentic Italian craftsmanship.

From Milan to Lima: Panettone’s New World Reign

Panettone, once a typical Christmas sweet from Milan, has undergone an extraordinary cultural transformation, becoming an icon of the holiday season in South America, particularly in Peru and Brazil. Its story begins with the Italian immigrants who brought this tradition with them between the 19th and 20th centuries.

However, its true rise was driven by entrepreneurial families like the D’Onofrios in Peru and the Bauduccos in Brazil. By industrializing its production, they made panettone accessible to all social classes, transforming it from a niche product into a national symbol of celebration.

In Peru, the consumption of panetón, traditionally accompanied by a cup of hot chocolate, is an essential family ritual; its per capita consumption now rivals and sometimes even surpasses that of Italy. A similar phenomenon occurred in Brazil, where hugely successful local variations like the chocottone also became widespread.

The story of panettone in South America is a powerful example of cultural integration: an Italian tradition that was not merely imported, but adopted, adapted, and ultimately fully integrated, becoming a global ambassador for the excellence and adaptability of ‘Made in Italy’.