Isola del Giglio is one of the Italian treasures comprised within the Tuscan Archipelago, which, we recall, also includes the Isle of Elba. In the summer season, from June until September, Isola del Giglio is perpetually traversed by thousands of tourists arriving largely from Tuscany, but also from the rest of Italy and foreign countries. During this period, it is possible to enjoy the beauty of the Island by land, via marked trails that allow for trekking routes to reach Poggio della Pagana, the magnificent Cala delle Caldane, or the two lighthouses (the Faro di Capel Rosso and the Faro di Punta Fenaio), or by sea through excursions to the Island’s most beautiful coves by boat or daily dives with qualified personnel. What is interesting to observe, however, is that Isola del Giglio does not cease to exist the moment the summer season ends; above all, it retains beauties that can only be grasped in the autumn season.
Trekking Routes
Even in autumn, enjoying the lower temperatures, it is possible to venture into the island’s interior. Indeed, from one of the residential centres, Giglio Castello, one need only follow first a paved road and then a path to arrive in the typical Mediterranean scrub (macchia mediterranea) and reach the Faro di Capel Rosso, situated on the southern tip of the island—an unmissable destination if searching for a breathtaking sunset. Furthermore, the Faro di Capel Rosso, now having become a hotel structure, was the location for a scene in the film “The Great Beauty” by director Paolo Sorrentino. Similarly, following another trekking itinerary, it is possible to reach the Faro di Punta Fenaio, located at the island’s northern tip. This lighthouse, after being automated, was converted into a hotel structure where it is possible to stay. Another interesting route is the one starting from Cannelle beach leading to Poggio della Pagana, the island’s highest point at 496 metres, from which one can enjoy a 360-degree view of the entire Tuscan archipelago.
The Faro di Capel Rosso
The Faro di Capel Rosso, today a hotel structure marking the boundary between land and sea in the extreme south of the island, was built in 1883 by the Navy for the illumination of the southern part of the island. It is constituted by a white octagonal sectional tower rising in front of the central part of the façade oriented towards the sea, and by a rectangular building with red and white stripes arranged on two levels. Before the lighthouse’s automation, which occurred in the 80s, the building hosted the keepers’ quarters. The last lighthouse keeper was Luigi Baffigi, who lived with his wife and daughter inside the building from 1975 until 1987. Regarding the origins of the name ‘Capel Rosso’, a legend tells of a girl named Marsilia, of Sienese origins, known for her fiery red hair with which she enchanted everyone. During the era in which Marsilia lived, pirates frequently looted Isola del Giglio, and during one of the assaults, they kidnapped the woman, bringing her as a gift to the Sultan. Later, the woman became respected and revered, and in her honour, the current promontory on which the lighthouse was built was named ‘Capel Rosso’.
The Faro di Punta Fenaio
The Faro di Punta Fenaio, situated on the northern tip of Isola del Giglio, was realised by the Navy and inaugurated in 1883. The infrastructure is, in the same way as the Faro di Capel Rosso, constituted by an octagonal masonry tower that rises before the central part of the façade oriented towards the sea of a rectangular building. Today, this lighthouse is also an accommodation facility situated in the Mediterranean scrub at the border between land and sea.
The Grape and Open Cellars Festival
For some years now, on the occasion of the arrival of autumn and the beginning of the harvest, the Grape and Open Cellars Festival (Festa dell’Uva e delle Cantine Aperte) is organised on the last weekend of September. This event has become a veritable tradition involving locals and tourists who stay overnight on the island for this occasion. In every corner of Giglio Castello’s historic centre, particularly in the cellars that are opened to the public by locals for the occasion, it is possible to taste all the territory’s food and wine excellences and listen to itinerant music with traditional island songs. The excellence highlighted during the festival is undoubtedly Ansonaco wine, made with the eponymous vine present on the island, cultivated on terraces that are sometimes very narrow and, therefore, in need of strictly manual harvesting. In every cellar, it is also possible to taste typical local dishes such as poacher’s soup (zuppa del bracconiere), grilled meat, and wild rabbit accompanied by local sweets such as, for example, Panficato. The Grape and Cellar Festival is a way to celebrate and make Gigliese traditions known even to those not native to the place.
Mammaliturchi!
“Mamma li turchi” was the exclamation that arose during the numerous incursions by the Ottoman Empire’s fleets in the Mediterranean Sea, which concluded with looting and deportation of slaves. Thus the expression also spread among the Gigliese population when, on November 18, 1799, the inhabitants of Giglio Castello suffered an incursion by Ottoman fleets ready to storm and plunder their fortress. The population was ready to defend their land, freedom, and religious faith in every way, asking for the protection of the Patron Saint Mamiliano. The corsairs were unable to break down those defensive walls composed of men, women, and children ready to defend everything they had, and were forced to retreat. Since then, every year, Gigliese citizens commemorate the event of that glorious day, calling it with devotion the day of “San Mamiliano dei Turchi”. This tradition has a strong religious value and is commemorated with a solemn procession in honour of San Mamiliano, the patron of Isola del Giglio.
The Ricciola Cup
The Ricciola Cup is a trolling fishing competition with strictly live bait that takes place on Isola del Giglio on the first weekend of October. Trolling is a sport fishing technique that consists of dragging artificial or natural bait from a moving boat to simulate fleeing prey, attracting predatory fish. The competition was initially named the ‘Ricciola Trophy’ and founded by Roberto Troiani, an excellent fisherman who wanted to bring together all enthusiasts of that type of technical fishing, locals or those from other parts of Italy, for the pure passion of fishing together and having fun. The Ricciola Cup reached its 41st edition in 2025 and, through these years, has continued to grow in terms of prestige, popularity, and number of participants, accompanied by a good dose of competitiveness. For this latest edition, 84 boats were registered, with 550 participants including fishermen, guests, friends, family members, and spectators who landed on the island solely to attend the event.
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