The Vara of Messina: an ancient tradition of Faith and spectacle

Every year, on the Feast of the Assumption (Ferragosto), August 15th, the city of Messina, located on the Strait that separates Sicily from Calabria, attracts hundreds of thousands of people for one of its oldest and most evocative traditions: the Vara.

The Origins of the Vara

Today, the event consists of a series of traditional initiatives culminating in the procession of a large votive chariot dedicated to the Madonna Assunta (Assumption). Its origins, however, are very ancient. The earliest celebrations, though very different from today’s, date back to around 1060 when Pope Nicholas II invested the Norman Roger I of Sicily with the banner bearing the image of the Assumption. Under this banner began the re-Christianization of the island, which until 1196 saw the rebuilding and restoration of cathedrals, churches, abbeys, monasteries, and convents dedicated to the Virgin Assumption throughout Sicily, starting with the restoration of Messina Cathedral.

The Evolution of the Vara Through the Ages

• Aragonese Era:
  • Between 1282 and 1516, there is evidence of the procession of a statue of the Virgin lavishly dressed and depicted on the back of a horse with precious trappings, along with other initiatives such as jousts and parades held at the Fair from the Field of the Holy Sepulchre, now the Messina International Fair.
  • In 1421, Alfonso V of Aragon moved the procession to the city’s Marina, postponing the date to August 1st to coincide with the end of the celebrations dedicated to the Assumption, then the patron saint of the city.
• The Triumphal Chariot:
  • The triumphal chariot as we know it today dates back to 1535, specifically to October 21st, when Emperor Charles V, triumphant after the Conquest of Tunis, used it for profane purposes during his passage through Sicily.
  • The Procession was written about by Colagiacomo d’Alibrando in “Il triompho il qual fece Messina nella Intrata del Imperator Carlo V”
  • The votive machine, modified for the occasion, featured a statue depicting the Emperor with the insignia of victory in hand instead of the figure of the Eternal Father supporting the Virgin Mary.
  • On November 2nd, 1571, the machine was presented again, but instead of the Emperor, there was Don John of Austria after the victory of Lepanto on October 7th.
  • The battle brought the plague to Messina, and the city of Palmi came to Messina’s aid. In thanks Messina gave Palmi a strand of the virgins hair.
  • Today the Madonna della Lettera is the patron saint of Messina, and her hair is held at the Duomo of Messina, and displayed on Corpus Domini.

The Modern Procession

The Vara procession as we know it today takes place on August 15th, a date established in 1720. During the Bourbon era, a unique tradition allowed the child portraying the Madonna on the votive chariot to grant a pardon to a condemned person. Up until 1866, the various figures adorning the Vara, such as angels and apostles, were represented by children, often orphans or the children of prisoners. The Madonna at the top was played by a virgin girl chosen by lot, while an adult man took on the role of the Eternal Father. However, after a couple of incidents in 1681 and 1738, these live representations were replaced with papier-mâché figures for safety reasons. The tradition of the procession has continued to thrive throughout the 20th and 21st centuries, even after an interruption caused by a major earthquake in 1908. In the 2000s, a dedicated Committee and Historical Group were formed to oversee and preserve this important cultural event.

The Structure of the Vara

The Vara has seen many transformations over the centuries, but its current form remains faithful to the designs of the 17th and 18th centuries. This impressive structure is pyramidal in shape, reaching a height of about 14 meters and weighing around 8 tons. Its base, known as the “cippu ‘a Vara,” supports allegorical figures representing clouds. A key element of the Vara is its “timoniera,” a wooden frame that enables the helmsmen to steer and maintain the chariot’s alignment during the procession. The upper part of the Vara is designed to resemble four large interwoven trunks, culminating in a representation of the Ptolemaic vision of the Universe, with the Earth at the center and the Sun, Moon, and planets revolving around it.

The Procession

The procession involves a meticulous assembly process. It begins with the placement of the “cippo,” the Vara’s base, at the starting point on August 1st. Over the following days, the rest of the structure is carefully constructed, ensuring that everything is ready for the grand event on August 15th. The procession itself commences at 7:00 PM from Piazza Ettore Castronovo. The Vara then travels along Via Garibaldi, making its way towards Piazza Duomo. Along this route, there are several planned stops, including Piazza Juvarra, Palazzo Zanca, and the intersection with Via I Settembre, where a challenging maneuver known as the “girata” takes place. Finally, the Vara reaches Piazza Duomo, where the ropes are cut into pieces and distributed among the crowd as tokens of good luck.

Other Ferragosto Traditions

• The Giants Mata and Grifone: Gigantic wooden statues that parade through the city in the days leading up to August 15th.
• Fireworks: Displays from the Stele of the Madonna della Lettera and the roof of Palazzo Zanca.
• Local Food: Traditional dishes such as baked pasta, mussels, focaccia messinese, and “calia e simenza.”

A Celebration of Faith and Community

The Ferragosto in Messina is a deeply felt day among the city’s inhabitants, not only for its religious value but also for its community spirit. In recent years, the Vara has attracted many tourists, fascinated by its ancient tradition and the beauty of Messina.

_{Original article by Alessia Malcaus, elaborated with the help of AI}