More than a century ago, an enterprising Italian from Genoa, Angelo Firpo, embarked on a journey that would etch his name into the culinary and social history of Calcutta (now Kolkata). Firpo’s, the restaurant he established, became synonymous with European glamour, sophistication, and fine dining, leaving an indelible mark on the city’s collective memory. Today, the spirit of this pioneering venture is being celebrated anew, largely thanks to the efforts of his descendant, Enrico De Barbieri, who is dedicated to preserving and sharing this remarkable Italian heritage.
The Genesis of a Culinary Icon
Angelo Firpo arrived in India with a vision. Around 1917, he opened Firpo’s on the bustling Chowringhee Road, destined to become one of the most famous addresses in British India. It wasn’t just a restaurant; it was an institution that pioneered Italian culinary excellence and European dining etiquette in the heart of Calcutta. Firpo’s quickly established itself as a beacon of high life, attracting a discerning clientele eager for a taste of continental sophistication. His entrepreneurial spirit was evident not only in the quality of the food but also in his marketing acumen, understanding that strategic promotion was key to success.
The Golden Era of Firpo’s
Throughout the early to mid-20th century, Firpo’s was the undisputed social epicentre for Calcutta’s elite, European gentry, native royalty, and visiting dignitaries. The establishment was multifaceted, boasting luxurious restaurants, a renowned patisserie, an esteemed catering service, and an elegant tea room. Its allure was amplified by magnificent ballrooms, cabaret performances featuring international artists, and India’s only sprung dance floor, making it the go-to destination for an unforgettable night out.
Distinguished guests, including Lord Irwin, Jawaharlal Nehru, the Maharaja of Cooch Behar, and the Rana of Nepal, frequented Firpo’s. The restaurant was famed for its fixed five-course menus, impeccable service by white-gloved waiters, and its role in introducing jazz music to the city. Memories from that era evoke an atmosphere of unparalleled elegance, where beer cost a mere two paise and was often accompanied by complimentary cocktail sausages. It was a place where Calcutta’s glamorous socialised, and where future stars like Merle Oberon were reportedly discovered.
Changing Tides and a Curtain Call
The golden era of Firpo’s began to wane after the early 1960s. Several factors contributed to its decline: the departure of many Europeans and Anglo-Indians post-independence, the socio-political turbulence of the Naxalite movement, food shortages, and labour unrest. A significant blow came with the imposition of a hefty entertainment tax. Despite its legendary status, Firpo’s eventually closed its doors in 1977. The iconic building was later converted into what is now known as Firpo’s Market, a name that still echoes its glorious past.
A Legacy Rekindled: Enrico De Barbieri Champions His Ancestor’s Story
The flame of Firpo’s legacy has been powerfully rekindled in recent times, significantly through the dedication of Angelo Firpo’s great-nephew, Enrico De Barbieri. An Ambassador of Genoa in the world, De Barbieri grew up with stories of his granduncle’s legendary establishment and felt a profound connection to Kolkata, a city he visited for the first time in late 2024.
His visit coincided with a series of events celebrating Firpo’s, organised as part of the Week of the Italian Cuisine in the World by the Italian Consulate in Kolkata. These included a poignant gathering at the Glenburn Penthouse where INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage) Kolkata honoured De Barbieri with a culinary heritage plaque and gifted him Firpo’s memorabilia. A grand gala evening at The Oberoi Grand, another historic Chowringhee landmark, meticulously curated by Gormei, recreated the magic of Firpo’s with classic dishes inspired by its original menus, live music from the Calcutta School of Music Quartet, and an art exhibition.
Enrico De Barbieri’s emotional journey saw him explore Kolkata’s historic culinary sites, including the erstwhile location of Firpo’s and the former site of Peliti’s, where Angelo Firpo had initially worked. Inspired by his ancestor’s cultural impact, De Barbieri also introduced Kolkata to the prestigious Premio Paganini, an international violin competition held in Genoa, viewing it as his contribution to the city’s vibrant cultural tapestry.
More Than a Restaurant: A Symbol of Italian-Indian Connection
The celebrations underscored that Firpo’s was more than just a successful business; it was a symbol of Italian excellence, entrepreneurial daring, and a significant cultural bridge between Italy and India. As Riccardo Dalla Costa, the Consul General of Italy in Kolkata, remarked, the events paid tribute not only to Angelo Firpo but also to the rich history of Kolkata. The Association of Historical Brands of Italy also supported these commemorative efforts, highlighting the value of corporate heritage in strengthening brand identity and preserving historical memory, featuring esteemed brands like Lazzaroni biscuits and Toschi liqueurs.
The enduring nostalgia for Firpo’s, shared by veterans who recall its unique ambience and exquisite offerings, speaks volumes about its lasting impact. Though the physical restaurant is no more, its story continues to inspire, a testament to a remarkable Italian who left an indelible mark on the heart of India. Enrico De Barbieri’s commitment ensures that the uplifting saga of Angelo Firpo and his legendary Calcutta establishment will continue to be told and celebrated for generations to come.
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