A Century of Excellence in Scandiano: Cantina Bertolani and the Renaissance of Spergola

There is a corner of Emilia, nestled on the first hills of Scandiano, where time seems to have made an unbreakable pact with the land. It is here, in the shadow of the historic Rocca dei Boiardo, that in 1925 Alfredo Bertolani laid the first stone of what would become a winemaking institution. Today, one hundred years later, Cantina Bertolani is not just a company: it is a custodian of memory and a laboratory for the future.

The Bertolani family’s story is one of resilience and vision. Starting as a grape broker, Alfredo had the intuition to take up the legacy of the Società Enologica Scandianese (active between the late 19th and early 20th centuries), founding his winery and naming it the “House of White Wine”—a distinctive and decidedly forward-thinking sign for the time.

Through four generations—from Alfredo to Vincenzo, passing through Giancarlo to the current helmsmen Andrea, Nicola, and Elena—the company has navigated wars and economic booms, always keeping a steady course on two values: family and absolute quality.

Andrea Bertolani, 2025 marks a milestone that few companies can boast: the centennial. Looking back at the figure of your great-grandfather Alfredo and the evolution of your family, what is the weightiest legacy—in a positive sense—that you feel you carry, and what is the secret that has allowed you to remain united and competitive for a whole century?

“The most precious legacy is undoubtedly my great-grandfather’s keen entrepreneurial initiative and his original mission: to aim for the highest possible quality of wines. These are aspects that today translate into constant oenological research, care for the innate characteristics of the grapes, and awareness of our traditions. But there is also a human ‘secret’: welcoming customers and maintaining a serene atmosphere in the company have guaranteed us a solid reputation. Our employees—young and with a very significant female presence—are family to us, and they share our mission with great motivation.“

If history is the foundation, the territory is the soul. And the soul of these hills has a precise name: Spergola. An indigenous white grape variety, ancient and noble, whose roots dive into legend back to the 11th century, to the times of Countess Matilda of Canossa. It is said that a gift of this sweet wine was even sent to Pope Gregory VII.

For decades, however, Spergola remained a hidden treasure, often confused with other vines. Cantina Bertolani played a crucial role in its rediscovery and enhancement, believing in its potential when few others did. Fresh, mineral, versatile: from the sparkling version to the passito, Spergola is today the ambassador of Scandiano to the world.

Your company was a pioneer in the valorization of Spergola, promoting the creation of the ‘Bianco di Scandiano’ DOC as early as 1976. Today, with the success of the ‘Compagnia della Spergola,’ this vine is experiencing a second youth. In your opinion, what makes Spergola so unique in the Italian wine scene, and why should an international consumer choose it over the great classics?

“Spergola is unique and deserves to be discovered. What makes it great is the rich clay soil with chalky veins of the Scandiano hills, combined with the natural ventilation of the slopes and the plant’s resistance to drought. Thanks to its innate acidity and structure, it allows for long aging and offers wines with wonderful scents of flowers and white fruit, savory and with remarkable persistence. It has a strong and recognizable personality: the scores obtained in guides—including 94 points for our ‘Bertolani Brut’ Metodo Classico—show that it competes on equal footing with the best Alta Langa, Trento Doc, and Franciacorta. If communicated in the right way, it can conquer diverse cultures, as our success in Japan demonstrates.“

But tradition, to survive, must know how to speak the language of the future. And at Bertolani, the future is named sustainability and technology. Far from being a museum piece, the winery stands out for its cutting-edge approach. They were among the first to eliminate pasteurization by introducing cold sterile bottling to preserve aromas.

In 2008, the inauguration of the new bio-architectural headquarters marked a definitive step: photovoltaic panels, rainwater recovery, eco-compatible materials, and high-level environmental certifications (ISO 14001 and EMAS). A commitment that culminates today with the conversion to organic production, demonstrating that respect for the land is not a slogan, but a daily practice.

You are a virtuous example of how a historic winery can become a model of the ‘Green Economy,’ from the architecture of the headquarters to organic certification. How difficult is it today to reconcile traditional winemaking techniques with the need for technological innovation and environmental sustainability? Is this a challenge that the market recognizes and appreciates?

“It is a daily and complex challenge, but the market appreciates it greatly, especially abroad. The key lies in balance: deep knowledge of the grapes, extreme attention in winemaking, and the use of advanced but pondered technologies for non-invasive processing. We consider wines as ‘living’ entities to be cared for daily. Every new technology is rigorously evaluated based on our certifications, such as ISO 22000 for food safety, to ensure that innovation is always at the service of quality.“

Cantina Bertolani’s journey does not stop at national borders. The excellence of Scandiano has crossed the ocean, arriving on tables in the United States, Japan, and Canada. To celebrate this century of life, the company launched “Cento,” a limited edition red Lambrusco Metodo Classico of only 2025 bottles, and planted a new “cru” vineyard of Spergola around the winery, already looking towards the next hundred years. A book will soon retrace this family saga, but the most beautiful chapter seems to be the one yet to be written.

To close, Andrea: you created the ‘Cento’ wine to celebrate the past, but you also planted a new vineyard looking to the future. What is the vision for Bertolani for the coming years? Where do you want to carry the flag of Scandiano and Made in Italy in the world?

“The Centennial was an incredible experience that gave us new energy. For the future, we believe in synergy with colleagues to promote not only quality Spergola and Lambrusco but the entire territory, rich in history and gastronomic excellence. New generations are stepping up in the company, ready to pick up the baton. The goal for us three siblings is to consolidate our position as a historical reference point for Spergola, given our long history spanning three centuries, and to enter markets that are increasingly receptive to indigenous wines, such as the East, India, and South America. The future is all to be written, and that’s the beauty of it.“

As the sun sets over the hills of Scandiano, illuminating those rows of vines that have seen a century of history pass by, the certainty remains that the Bertolani family is not simply producing wine, but bottling culture.

“Cento” is not just a celebratory label; it is the promise that this family business will continue to tell its ancient tale with an ever-new voice, strong in deep roots and with a clear gaze towards tomorrow.

From the Rocca dei Boiardo to glasses all over the world: happy birthday, Cantina Bertolani. And prosit to the next century.